Symptoms: Would not trip at end of record. When selecting B7, it would also play D7 and vice versa.
Checked the switch continuity with an ohm-meter and the switch was not reliable. Since the prospect of getting a duplicate switch was slim, I opted to open it up and clean the contacts. It solved that problem.
Observing the selector pins under the mechanism while the owner pressed the selector buttons on the front of the jukebox, I could see that two solenoids were activating at the same time. With an ohm-meter, I verified that the B and D solenoids were shorted together. I unplugged the front selector switches and the short was still present. I removed the selector mech and realized the box attached to the bottom of the selector mech was the stepper unit for remote boxes. I unplugged the stepper unit from the selector mech and the short between the solenoids went away. The problem was one of the stepper relays was gummed up with old grease and wasn’t resetting to zero. It was stuck between B and D, shorting them out. After consulting with the owner, I manually moved the stepper to the reset position, not repairing it and leaving it gummed up. The owner was never going to use the stepper unit, and I couldn’t simply leave the stepper unplugged because, according to the service manual, there needed to be a jumper plug installed.
I replaced the needle, which improved the sound substantially.
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Symptoms: Stuck flipper, flipper fuse blown, many lights not working.
The flipper circuit uses two voltages, one for pull-in (50V) and another for hold (8V). The transistor controlling the pull-in voltage (Q9) was shorted, leaving the high-power on to the coil, blowing the fuses. Replaced the transistor and the flippers worked.
I replaced many burned out lights. There are two rows of lights (in the 8×8 grid) not working. The transistors looked fried, and it looked like the board had also been hacked. Many GI lights on the backbox were not working too. Someone had re-wired some of the GI lighting bypassing one of the boards. Some of the ramp diverters are not working, so you never get the Hat Trick. The owner was not interested in fixing these issues! The machine needs to be “shopped”, but it is still being used in a bar.
Location: Denver, Colorado.
Symptoms: Turbo bumpers not working, blowing fuses. Broken wire under playfield, loose playfield components, stuck switch on left slingshot, lights not working.
Machine needs to be “shopped” as it’s not in good working condition. Found shorted transistor that drives solenoid for turbo bumper. Replaced it, but it immediately smoked. Took a closer look at both the input and output sides of the drive transistor (TIP122). On the output side, discovered a melted solenoid under the turbo bumper. Replaced the solenoid. The bumper switch was ok. Checked the input side of the drive transistor and found the 2N4401 was shorted as well as the 7402 NOR gate IC was blown. Replaced all the bad parts.
The stuck switch on the slingshot was because the entire slingshot assembly was ready to fall off the playfield. Tighten it, repaired the broken wire.
Replaced many burned out bulbs. Backbox lights not working. Owner didn’t want those fixed.
When playing a test game, right flipper was getting stuck. The flipper shaft bushing didn’t have any screws holding it to the playfield. Found enough screws lying in the bottom of the cabinet to fix it. Flipper was still sticking. Took it apart to find someone had greased the flipper solenoid. NEVER DO THIS. Went through and tried to clean up all of the grease. Flipper worked fine after that. Overall the game is working. It is in a bar. The owner doesn’t want anything else fixed.
Location: Denver, Colorado.